The Sierra de Andújar Natural Park is located in the northwest of the province of Jaén, in the heart of the Sierra Morena, just a stone’s throw from the city of Andújar. It has an area of 74,774 hectares, and contains territory of four municipalities: Andújar, Baños de la Encina, Villanueva de la Reina and Marmolejo.

It has the largest patches of Mediterranean forest of the Peninsula, with dominance of oak and cork oak in the form of pasture and at higher altitudes, where humidity is higher, the gall oak. It is also crossed by several rivers and marshes.

It is home to highly endangered species, such as the lynx, the wolf, the Iberian imperial eagle, etc., which have in these mountains one of their last settlements. Livestock farming is equally important, with extensive pastures dedicated to the breeding of fighting bulls or to the hunting of deer, fallow deer, roe deer, roe deer, wild boar and wild boar. Thus, the sport of hunting is an economic resource of the first order in the famous public and private hunting grounds of the Park.

This Park is known, in addition to its natural values, for hosting the Sanctuary of the Virgen de la Cabeza in the Cerro del Cabezo; the Pilgrimage, in April, brings together tens of thousands of people from all over Spain. To this is added an archaeological and ethnographic heritage not inconsiderable represented among others by prehistoric sites.

Although Despeñaperros is one of the smallest natural parks in Andalucia, it concentrates an extraordinary geological, natural and historical heritage. Its slopes have been the scene of various epic episodes such as the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa. The erosion of the Despeñaperros River created this natural pass that connects the Castilian plateau with Andalusia. The action of this water course, which flows from north to south eroding the rocks, has originated spectacular landscapes such as Los Órganos, formed by quartzites of great hardness and appearance of gigantic vertical tubes. El Salto del Fraile and Las Correderas are other examples of these interesting formations.

In this rugged environment of almost vertical walls there are deep canyons and faults. In the shady areas of these cliffs, there are interesting plant species. The hiker can enjoy these plants through itineraries such as the one that runs through the Barranco de Valdeazores, where the Mediterranean scrub predominates with wild pear trees, strawberry trees and durillos that give this space different colors throughout the autumn. Another option is to visit the shady area of Collado de la Estrella, where the different chromatic tones come from an oak grove of
gall oaks and melojos.

The sunniest areas, on the other hand, are the kingdom of the holm oak that intermingles with the pine, the kermes oak or the rockrose. In this dense vegetation, deer and wild boar find refuge, species that are exploited for hunting and share the habitat with majestic birds of prey, such as the Iberian imperial eagle or the griffon vulture.

Due to its strategic location, these lands have been populated by numerous cultures since prehistoric times that have left interesting signs of their passage. One of them, the Iberians, made offerings in the form of bronze statuettes, known as dolls by the locals. These religious offerings were carried out in places considered sacred, such as the Sanctuary of the Collado de los Jardines, where the Cueva de los Muñecos (Cave of the Dolls) is located. In addition, in
some of them, previous and atypical samples of rock art can be found, which confirm the mystical perception that ancient man had of these places. Other examples of these paintings can be found in caves such as the Santo or Vacas de Retamoso.

The old Roman paved road, which runs along a lush natural vegetation, is also part of the legacy of the past in Despeñaperros. The visitor can walk along it thanks to the Empedraíllo trail, which will whet your appetite to enjoy the rich gastronomy of this place, based on the typical products of the mountain range such as big and small game meats, mushrooms, especially chanterelles, and asparagus.